A Journey Through a Winter Wonderland
The Eastern Express (Doğu Ekspresi) from Ankara to Kars has transformed from a utilitarian rail link into one of Turkey's most sought-after winter travel experiences. As the train climbs from the Central Anatolian plateau into the rugged mountains of the east, the landscape is blanketed in pristine snow, turning the 24-hour journey into a moving panorama of frozen rivers, pine forests, and remote villages.
Travelers from across Turkey and beyond are flocking to this route, drawn by the romance of watching the world glide by from a warm cabin while sipping hot tea. The train's sleeper cabins and couchettes provide a cozy retreat, and the dining car serves hearty meals that complement the chilly views outside.
For many, the highlight is the arrival in Kars, a city that serves as the gateway to some of Turkey's most spectacular winter destinations. The journey itself is an event, with passengers braving the cold at station stops to snap photos of snow-covered platforms and steam rising from the locomotive.
Sárıkamış: A Snowy Playground
Just an hour's drive from Kars, Sarıkamış is a winter sports paradise. Its unique crystal snow—often compared to the powder of the Alps—draws skiers and snowboarders to the slopes of Mount Cibiltepe. The resort offers runs for all levels, and the surrounding pine forests are perfect for snowshoeing and cross-country skiing.
Beyond the slopes, Sarıkamış is steeped in history. The Sarıkamış Martyrs' Monument commemorates the Ottoman soldiers who perished in the harsh winter of 1914 during World War I. Visiting the site in the snow is a poignant reminder of the region's past.
After a day in the cold, travelers can warm up in local cafés with a glass of salep, a creamy hot drink made from orchid tubers, or indulge in Kars's famous honey and cheese.
Ani: Ghost City in the Snow
The ancient city of Ani, a UNESCO World Heritage site on the Turkish-Armenian border, is even more atmospheric under a layer of snow. Once a thriving medieval capital, Ani now stands as a hauntingly beautiful ruin, with crumbling churches and a majestic cathedral silhouetted against the white landscape.
Winter visits require preparation—the site is exposed and windswept—but the reward is solitude and a sense of timelessness. The nearby Kars River freezes over, and the silence is broken only by the crunch of snow underfoot.
Local guides offer tours that bring Ani's history to life, sharing stories of its glory days and its eventual abandonment. The contrast between the warm hospitality of Kars and the icy ruins is part of the region's unique charm.
Booking Your Sleeper Cabin: Act Early
Demand for the Eastern Express has skyrocketed in recent years, especially during the winter months. Sleeper cabins and couchettes sell out weeks, sometimes months, in advance. Tickets are released on the Turkish State Railways (TCDD) website and at stations, but the online system can be tricky for foreign travelers.
To secure a spot, book as soon as your travel dates are confirmed. The most popular departures are on Fridays and weekends, so consider traveling midweek for better availability. If sleepers are sold out, couchettes offer a budget-friendly alternative, though privacy is limited.
For a more luxurious option, the separately operated Touristic Eastern Express offers package deals with stops in Erzurum and Kars, including meals and excursions. These sell out equally fast, so planning ahead is essential.
Packing for Cold-Weather Adventure
Winter in eastern Turkey is no joke—temperatures can plummet to -20°C or lower. Layering is key: start with thermal base layers, add fleece or down mid-layers, and top with a windproof, waterproof outer shell. Insulated, waterproof boots with good traction are a must for walking in snow and ice.
Don't forget accessories: a warm hat, gloves, scarf, and sunglasses to protect against snow glare. A power bank for your phone is useful, as cold drains batteries quickly. And while the train is heated, stations and outdoor activities will test your cold tolerance.
Pack snacks and a thermos for the journey, though the dining car offers meals and hot drinks. A good book or downloaded entertainment will keep you occupied during the longer stretches without scenic views.
Local Warmth Amidst the Frost
Despite the freezing temperatures, the people of Kars and Sarıkamış are known for their warmth. Hospitality is a cornerstone of the culture here, and visitors are often invited into homes for tea or a meal. The local cuisine features robust dishes like etli ekmek (meat flatbread) and kete (a buttery pastry), perfect for fueling up after a day in the snow.
In Kars, don't miss the opportunity to sample the region's renowned honey and aged cheeses, which are sold in the bustling market. The city's Ottoman-era stone buildings and Russian-influenced architecture add to its distinctive character.
As the Eastern Express continues to capture imaginations, it reminds us that winter travel can be magical. The combination of a historic rail journey, breathtaking landscapes, and genuine local hospitality makes this route a must-do for any snow-chasing adventurer.
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