A Winter Wonderland on Rails
The Eastern Express (Doğu Ekspresi) from Ankara to Kars has become one of Türkiye's most sought-after winter journeys. As the train climbs through the Anatolian steppe, the landscape transforms into a snow-dusted fairytale of frozen rivers and endless white fields. The route, which dates back to the 1930s, offers a nostalgic pace that lets travellers savour the scenery.
In recent years, the sleeper cabins have become so popular that they sell out weeks in advance. The appeal is easy to understand: waking up to sunrise over snow-covered mountains and arriving in Kars, a city with a rich heritage and a welcoming spirit.
Kars: A City of Heritage and Hospitality
Kars is often called the 'Paris of the East' for its grid-like streets and elegant Russian-era buildings. The Kars Castle offers panoramic views of the city and the frozen Kars River. Below, the striking Church of the Twelve Apostles, now a mosque, stands as a testament to the region's layered history.
But what truly makes Kars special in winter is the warmth of its people. Local cafes serve up hearty dishes like goose kavurma (roasted goose) and Kars gravyer cheese, perfect for refuelling after a day in the cold. Don't miss the chance to try the famous honey and the local pastry, kete.
Practical Tips for Booking the Eastern Express
Securing a spot on the Eastern Express requires planning. Sleeper cabins, especially the private compartments, are often booked out months in advance for the winter season. Tickets typically go on sale 30 days before departure, so mark your calendar and be ready to book as soon as sales open.
For those who miss out on sleeper cabins, the standard seats are still comfortable, but for the full experience, the sleeper is worth the effort. Consider travelling midweek for better availability, and keep an eye on the official TCDD website for updates.
Packing for the Cold: What to Bring
Kars in winter is bitterly cold, with temperatures often dropping well below freezing. Layering is key: thermal underwear, fleece mid-layers, and a windproof, insulated outer layer are essential. Sturdy, waterproof boots with good grip are a must for navigating snowy streets.
Don't forget accessories: a warm hat, gloves, and a scarf. Hand warmers and a thermos for hot drinks can make a big difference. And while the train is heated, the journey is long, so pack snacks and entertainment for the ride.
Exploring Kars and Sarıkamış
Beyond the city, the nearby town of Sarıkamış is a snowy paradise. Known for its crystal-clear ice and pine forests, it's a haven for winter sports enthusiasts. The Sarıkamış Ski Resort offers slopes for all levels, and the surrounding forests are perfect for snowshoeing.
History buffs should visit the Sarıkamış Martyrs' Monument, a poignant reminder of the Ottoman soldiers who perished in the harsh winter of 1914. The Ani ruins, a UNESCO World Heritage site on the Armenian border, are also a must-see, though access can be limited in heavy snow.
Plan Your Fairytale Winter Escape
To make the most of your trip, start planning early. Use our trip planner to map out your itinerary, and check our best time to visit guide for seasonal insights. For more inspiration on winter travel in Türkiye, explore our guides and itineraries.
Whether you're riding the rails or exploring the snow-covered landscapes, Kars and the Eastern Express promise a winter adventure straight out of a storybook.
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