Türkiye's Black Sea Highlands Emerge as the Year's Surprise Cool-Summer Escape

Why the Black Sea Highlands Are This Summer's Cool Escape

While the Mediterranean and Aegean coasts bake under 35°C-plus heat, the Black Sea highlands are enjoying daytime temperatures in the low 20s°C — a difference that has not gone unnoticed by travelers. The plateaus of Uzungöl, Ayder, and Pokut have seen a surge in interest this summer, as visitors seek cool air, misty forests, and a slower pace.

These high-altitude villages sit between 1,000 and 2,000 meters, where lush green valleys, rushing streams, and traditional wooden houses create a scene that feels worlds away from the beach resorts. The region is also a haven for tea lovers: the slopes around Rize produce some of the world's finest black tea, and the morning ritual of a tea-garden breakfast has become a highlight for many visitors.

For those willing to trade sunbeds for hiking boots, the Black Sea highlands offer a surprisingly accessible and affordable summer escape — one that feels both undiscovered and deeply welcoming.

Uzungöl: The Lake in the Clouds

Uzungöl, meaning 'long lake', is perhaps the most famous of the highland destinations. The lake itself, surrounded by pine forests and steep mountains, is a serene spot for a morning stroll. The village has grown popular, but it retains its charm, especially in the early hours before day-trippers arrive from Trabzon.

Visitors can walk the 2.5-kilometer path around the lake, rent a paddleboat, or simply sip tea at one of the lakeside cafes. For a more active day, the trail up to the Sultan Murat Plateau offers sweeping views and a chance to see traditional yayla (highland) life.

Accommodation ranges from simple guesthouses to boutique hotels, many built in the local wooden style. Spending a night here allows you to experience the crisp mountain air and the sound of the call to prayer echoing across the valley at dusk.

Ayder: Thermal Springs and Alpine Meadows

Further east, Ayder Plateau sits at 1,350 meters in the Kaçkar Mountains. Known for its thermal springs, Ayder combines relaxation with outdoor adventure. The hot springs are said to ease muscle aches, a perfect remedy after a day of hiking.

The plateau is a base for exploring the Kaçkar Mountains National Park, with trails leading to glacial lakes, waterfalls, and panoramic viewpoints. In summer, the meadows are carpeted with wildflowers, and the air is filled with the scent of pine and thyme.

Ayder's village center has a cluster of restaurants and cafes serving local dishes like muhlama (a cornmeal and cheese fondue) and fresh trout. Many guesthouses are family-run, offering a genuine taste of Black Sea hospitality.

Pokut: The Forgotten Plateau

For those seeking solitude, Pokut is a hidden gem. Perched at 2,050 meters, this tiny plateau is accessible via a winding road from Çamlıhemşin. The reward is breathtaking: traditional wooden houses with sweeping views of the Kaçkar range, often above the clouds.

There are no hotels here, only a handful of guesthouses and campsites. Days are spent hiking to nearby plateaus like Sal and Gito, or simply reading a book while the clouds roll by. At night, the sky is a blanket of stars, far from city lights.

Pokut is best visited between June and September, when the road is clear and the weather is mild. Even then, come prepared for sudden fog and cool evenings.

Village Guesthouses and Tea-Garden Breakfasts

One of the joys of the Black Sea highlands is staying in a village guesthouse. These family-run establishments offer simple, comfortable rooms and home-cooked meals. Breakfast is often served in a tea garden, with unlimited glasses of freshly brewed çay, along with local cheeses, olives, honey, and warm bread.

Many guesthouses also offer dinner, featuring regional specialties such as kuymak (a cheesy cornmeal dish), pickles, and bean stews. The emphasis is on seasonal, local ingredients, often grown in the family's own garden.

Staying in a guesthouse not only supports the local economy but also provides insight into the daily life of the highland communities, from tea harvesting to animal husbandry.

Easy Walking Routes for All Levels

You don't need to be a seasoned hiker to enjoy the highlands. There are plenty of gentle walks suitable for families and casual walkers.

• Uzungöl Lake Loop: A flat 2.5 km path around the lake, perfect for a morning or evening stroll.
• Ayder to Gelintülü Waterfall: A 1.5 km trail through forest, ending at a picturesque waterfall.
• Pokut to Sal Plateau: A moderate 3 km hike with stunning views, taking about 1.5 hours each way.
• Çamlıhemşin to Zilkale: A relatively easy walk to a medieval castle, combining history and scenery.

These routes are well-marked but can be muddy after rain, so sturdy shoes are recommended. Local guides are available for those who want to explore further.

How to Reach the Region and What to Pack

The main gateway to the region is Trabzon Airport, with direct flights from Istanbul and other major Turkish cities. From Trabzon, Uzungöl is about 1.5 hours by car, while Ayder and Pokut are roughly 2.5 to 3 hours. Rize-Artvin Airport, opened in 2022, offers another option, especially for Ayder.

Public minibuses (dolmuş) run from Trabzon and Rize to the main towns, but renting a car gives you more flexibility to explore remote plateaus. The roads are winding but well-maintained.

Weather in the highlands is notoriously changeable. Even in summer, temperatures can drop to 10°C at night, and rain showers are common. Bring layers: a waterproof jacket, fleece, long trousers, and sturdy walking shoes. A small backpack for day trips is also useful.

With its cool air, green landscapes, and warm hospitality, the Black Sea highlands are a refreshing alternative to the coast — and this summer, travelers are discovering them in record numbers.