The Ancient City of Anazarbus: Cilicia's Forgotten Metropolis

Discover Anazarbus: A Forgotten Roman Metropolis

Tucked away in the fertile Çukurova plain of southern Turkey, Anazarbus (also known as Anavarza) was once a rival to Tarsus and a major city of Roman Cilicia. Today, it remains one of the country's most underrated archaeological treasures. Unlike the crowded ruins of Ephesus, here you can explore a sprawling ancient metropolis in near-total solitude, with only the sounds of birds and rustling crops to accompany you.

The site's most iconic monument is a towering triumphal arch that once greeted travelers entering the city. Beyond it, a massive stadium—one of the largest in Anatolia—stretches out, its seating terraces still visible. Atop a craggy hill, the hilltop fortress offers panoramic views over the plain, a strategic stronghold that changed hands from Romans to Byzantines to Armenians.

The Triumphal Arch and Stadium

The triumphal arch at Anazarbus is a showstopper. Erected in honor of Emperor Augustus or perhaps Caracalla, it stands three stories high, with intricate reliefs and inscriptions that hint at the city's former grandeur. Walking through it, you follow the same path as ancient merchants and soldiers.

Just beyond lies the stadium, a vast U-shaped structure that could seat thousands. Its walls and tiered seats are remarkably well-preserved, and you can easily imagine the roar of chariot races and athletic competitions that once filled this space. Unlike at other sites, there are no ropes or barriers—you're free to wander and even climb into the seating area for a unique perspective.

The Hilltop Fortress and Panoramic Views

No visit to Anazarbus is complete without the steep but rewarding climb to the hilltop fortress. The path winds past rock-cut tombs, cisterns, and fragments of Byzantine and Armenian walls. At the summit, the ruins of a medieval castle sprawl across the plateau, offering breathtaking 360-degree views of the surrounding countryside.

From this vantage point, you can see the checkerboard of fertile fields, the distant Taurus Mountains, and the meandering Ceyhan River. It's a perfect spot for a picnic or simply to reflect on the layers of history beneath your feet. On clear days, the silence is profound, broken only by the wind and the occasional call of a shepherd.

Exploring the Site Almost Alone

One of the greatest thrills of Anazarbus is the sense of discovery. There are no turnstiles, no audio guides, and often no other visitors. You might have the entire site to yourself, free to inspect carved stones, trace the grid of ancient streets, or simply sit among the ruins and soak in the atmosphere.

The surrounding villages are welcoming and offer a glimpse of traditional rural life. Locals may greet you with curious smiles and perhaps a glass of tea. The fertile fields that surround the site are a reminder of why this location was chosen—abundant water and rich soil made it a prize for empires.

Practical Directions and Getting There

Anazarbus is located near the village of Dilekkaya, about 30 km (19 miles) west of Ceyhan and roughly 80 km (50 miles) northeast of Adana. The easiest way to get there is by car; from Adana, take the O-52 motorway east to Ceyhan, then follow signs toward Kozan and Dilekkaya. The final approach is on a paved road that leads directly to the site.

If you don't have a car, you can take a minibus from Adana to Ceyhan, then hire a taxi for the remaining distance. It's a good idea to arrange for the taxi to wait, as public transport from the site is infrequent. Wear sturdy shoes, bring water and sun protection, as there are no facilities on site.

Nearby Attractions: Karatepe and Adana

Combine your visit to Anazarbus with Karatepe-Aslantaş National Park, a stunning Hittite site about an hour's drive east. Karatepe features a beautifully preserved citadel with monumental gateways adorned with lions and sphinxes, set in a forested park with a picturesque lake. It's a fascinating contrast to the Roman ruins of Anazarbus.

Back in Adana, treat yourself to the city's legendary culinary scene. Adana is famous for its spicy kebab (Adana kebabı), but don't miss the şalgam (fermented turnip juice), bici bici (a refreshing dessert), and künefe. The bustling markets and riverside restaurants offer a perfect end to a day of exploration.

When to Visit and How Long to Stay

The best time to visit Anazarbus is in spring (April-May) or autumn (September-October), when temperatures are mild and the surrounding fields are green or golden. Summers can be scorching, and winters may bring rain. The site is open daily during daylight hours, and there is no entrance fee.

Plan to spend at least half a day at Anazarbus to fully explore the arch, stadium, and fortress. If you're combining with Karatepe, allow a full day. Adana's culinary delights are best enjoyed in the evening, so consider staying overnight in Adana to experience the city's vibrant food scene.