Çamlıhemşin's Elevit and Pokut Yaylas: Türkiye's Cloud-Level Village Stays

An Unforgettable Highland Welcome

Perched at around 2,000 metres in the Kaçkar Mountains, the yaylas of Elevit and Pokut feel like a different world. Wooden plateau houses cling to green slopes, and when the weather rolls in, you find yourself literally above the clouds. It is one of Türkiye's most magical and affordable stays, far from the crowds and close to the sky.

This is not a hotel experience — it is a homestay in a working highland village. Families open their doors to travellers, offering simple rooms with wooden walls, thick quilts, and the smell of woodsmoke. The welcome is genuine and unpretentious, and the price is remarkably low for such an extraordinary setting.

Mornings here begin with the sound of cowbells and the smell of fresh bread. You will be handed a glass of tea before you have even finished saying good morning, and the day unfolds slowly, shaped by the rhythm of the mountains.

Wooden Plateau Houses and Cloud-Level Views

The traditional yayla houses are built from local wood and stone, with steep roofs to shed the heavy rain and mist. Inside, you will find handwoven rugs, low seating around a stove, and windows that frame a constantly changing panorama of peaks and cloud.

In the evening, mist often rises from the valleys and settles below the village, leaving you floating on an island of green. The silence is profound, broken only by the crackle of the fire and the occasional cowbell. It is a place to disconnect completely — there is limited electricity and almost no phone signal, which is precisely the point.

Accommodation is simple but comfortable: shared bathrooms, warm blankets, and meals taken together with the family. What you sacrifice in luxury you gain in authenticity, and most guests leave feeling they have made friends for life.

Homemade Butter, Cornbread, and Endless Tea

The food is one of the great joys of a yayla stay. Breakfast usually includes village cheese, olives, honey, and — the star of the table — homemade butter churned from the family's own cows, spread thickly on warm cornbread. The flavour is rich, tangy, and utterly unforgettable.

Cornbread, known locally as mısır ekmeği, is a staple of the Black Sea highlands and appears at nearly every meal. It is often served with kuymak, a gooey blend of cornmeal, butter, and melted cheese that bubbles in a copper pan over the fire.

And then there is the tea. Glasses are refilled before they are empty, and refusing is almost impossible. Tea is the language of hospitality here — a way of saying welcome, of slowing down, of sharing time. You will drink more of it than you ever thought possible, and you will be glad of every glass.

Getting There: Rough Roads and Real Adventure

Reaching Elevit and Pokut is part of the adventure. From Çamlıhemşin, a paved road winds up through the Fırtına Valley, but the final stretch to the yaylas is rough, steep, and often muddy. A standard car is not recommended; a 4x4 or local minibus (the yayla minibüsü) is the best option.

The road is narrow with sheer drops and few passing places, so driving yourself requires confidence and caution. Many travellers choose to hire a local driver who knows every bend and puddle. In wet weather, the track can become genuinely challenging, and some sections may be impassable.

There is no public transport schedule to speak of — minibuses leave when they are full, usually in the morning from Çamlıhemşin. It is worth arranging your return with your host or driver in advance, as leaving can be trickier than arriving.

When to Go and What to Expect

The best months to visit are from May to September. In late spring, the slopes are carpeted with wildflowers and the waterfalls are thundering. Summer brings lush green pastures, grazing herds, and the liveliest yayla atmosphere. By September, the crowds thin and the light turns golden.

Outside these months, the yaylas are largely deserted and snowbound, with most families descending to the valleys. Even in summer, weather changes fast — sunshine can turn to thick fog or rain within an hour, so pack layers, waterproofs, and sturdy shoes.

Expect basic facilities: no ATMs, limited electricity, and no reliable internet. Bring cash, a torch, and a sense of humour. The reward is a glimpse of a way of life that has changed little for centuries.

Why It Stays With You

What makes a stay in Elevit and Pokut so memorable is not luxury but generosity. Families who have little share everything — their food, their fire, their stories. You arrive as a stranger and leave as a guest who was truly welcomed.

The combination of dramatic scenery, simple comfort, and human warmth is rare and deeply affecting. Sitting on a wooden veranda with a glass of tea, watching clouds pour over the ridge, you understand why people return year after year.

"We came for one night and stayed for four. The butter, the tea, the clouds — we did not want to leave." — a traveller's note from the yayla guestbook

If you are looking for an affordable, authentic, and unforgettable Turkish highland experience, Elevit and Pokut should be at the top of your list. Come with an open mind, a full camera battery, and a readiness to drink a great deal of tea.