Kars and Ani: Eastern Türkiye's Snowy Frontier of History and Cheese

Kars: A City of History and Warmth

Perched on the vast, windswept plateau of eastern Türkiye, Kars is a city that wears its history proudly. Once a pivotal stronghold on the Silk Road and a contested frontier between empires, today it exudes a quiet charm that captivates travelers seeking authenticity. The city's wide boulevards, lined with elegant Russian-era buildings, hint at its cosmopolitan past, while the imposing Kars Castle watches over the streets below.

But what truly sets Kars apart is its people. Despite the biting cold of winter, locals greet visitors with genuine warmth and curiosity. A glass of tea is never far away, and conversations often turn to the city's storied past and its beloved cheese. This is a place where hospitality is not just custom but a way of life.

Kars is also the gateway to one of Türkiye's most enigmatic archaeological sites: the medieval ruins of Ani. Just a short drive away, this ghost city on the Armenian border transports you back in time, its crumbling churches and mosques standing as silent witnesses to a bygone era.

Ani: The Ghost City of 1001 Churches

Rising from the grassy plains like a mirage, Ani was once a thriving metropolis known as the "City of 1001 Churches." At its peak in the 11th century, it rivaled Constantinople in size and splendor. Today, its skeletal remains—shattered domes, towering minarets, and intricate frescoes—evoke a haunting beauty that lingers long after you leave.

Walking through Ani is like stepping into a living history book. The Cathedral of Ani, with its pointed arches and soaring columns, still stands defiant against the elements. The Church of the Redeemer, partially collapsed, offers a poignant reminder of the city's turbulent past. And the Menuçehr Mosque, one of the oldest in Anatolia, showcases the region's layered Islamic heritage.

In winter, Ani is often blanketed in snow, adding an ethereal quality to the ruins. The silence is profound, broken only by the crunch of your footsteps and the distant call of a shepherd. It's a place of contemplation and wonder, where the past feels palpably present.

The Culinary Pride of Kars: Cheese and Beyond

Kars is renowned throughout Türkiye for its cheese, a staple of the breakfast table and a source of local pride. The most famous variety is Kars kaşarı, a hard, yellow cheese with a nutty, slightly salty flavor that pairs perfectly with fresh bread and ripe tomatoes. Made from sheep's milk and aged in caves, it's a taste of the region's pastoral traditions.

But Kars cuisine goes beyond cheese. The highlands yield rich honey, and the local butter is churned to golden perfection. Hearty dishes like hingel (dumplings with yogurt and meat) and kete (a flaky pastry filled with cheese or potatoes) warm the soul on cold days. Be sure to try kuymak, a gooey cornmeal and cheese fondue, best enjoyed with crusty bread.

To truly experience Kars' culinary heritage, visit the local bazaar or a traditional restaurant. The city's cheese museum, though small, offers insight into the cheesemaking process and the chance to sample different varieties. And don't leave without trying Kars balı, the region's fragrant honey, which is celebrated across the country.

Getting There: The Eastern Express Adventure

One of the most memorable ways to reach Kars is aboard the Eastern Express (Doğu Ekspresi), a legendary train journey from Ankara that winds through the rugged landscapes of Anatolia. The trip takes about 24 hours, but the stunning vistas—especially in winter, when the countryside is cloaked in snow—make it an experience in itself.

The train departs Ankara daily and passes through cities like Kayseri and Sivas before arriving in Kars. For the best views, book a berth in the sleeping car or the newer panoramic car, which offers large windows for admiring the scenery. In recent years, the train has become popular among domestic tourists, so book tickets well in advance, especially during peak season.

Alternatively, you can fly to Kars from Istanbul or Ankara, with frequent daily flights. The airport is a short taxi ride from the city center. Buses also connect Kars to major cities, but the train remains the most romantic option.

Winter in Kars: A Wonderland of Snow and Silence

Winter transforms Kars into a frozen paradise. Temperatures often plummet well below freezing, and snow blankets the city and surrounding plains from December through March. While the cold can be intense, it also brings a magical stillness and beauty that few other places can match.

Dress in layers, including a warm coat, hat, gloves, and waterproof boots. The icy sidewalks can be slippery, so take care when walking. Many attractions, including Ani, remain open, but check for reduced hours. The Kars Winter Sports Center, located on the slopes of Mount Eşek, offers skiing and snowboarding for those seeking adventure.

Despite the chill, winter is a wonderful time to visit. The city's cafes are cozy, serving hot tea and hearty soups. The snow-covered ruins of Ani are particularly atmospheric, and you'll likely have them almost to yourself. Just be prepared for shorter daylight hours and possible travel disruptions due to weather.

Local Hospitality: The Heart of Kars

What visitors remember most about Kars is the warmth of its people. Despite the harsh climate, locals are incredibly welcoming, eager to share their city's stories and traditions. It's not uncommon to be invited into a home for tea or a meal, where conversation flows as freely as the tea from the samovar.

This hospitality extends to the city's hotels and guesthouses, many of which are family-run and offer personalized service. The staff often go out of their way to ensure you feel at home, providing tips on where to eat, what to see, and how to navigate the region.

Embrace the slower pace of life here. Take time to chat with shopkeepers, sip tea in a local kahvehane (coffeehouse), and simply soak in the atmosphere. In Kars, you'll find that the true treasure is the connection with its people.