Yeşilüzümlü and the Kaya Villages: Fethiye's High Plateau Market Town

A Market Town Above the Coast

Perched on a green plateau about 30 kilometres from Fethiye, Yeşilüzümlü is a working Turkish village that has become a favourite detour for travellers seeking a slower pace. Its name means 'green grape', a nod to the vineyards that once covered the surrounding hills. Today the village is best known for its Friday market, when growers, cheesemakers and craftspeople from the surrounding hamlets converge on the central square.

The market is a feast for the senses: pyramids of tomatoes and peppers, strings of dried okra, honey from nearby hives, and stalls selling hand-woven textiles and carved wooden spoons. It's a place to shop alongside locals, sip çay from a tulip glass, and taste the famous Yeşilüzümlü morels and mushrooms that are celebrated each spring.

Yeşilüzümlü makes an easy and rewarding day trip from Ölüdeniz or Fethiye, but staying overnight reveals a different rhythm: cool mountain evenings, birdsong instead of basslines, and the chance to join a village breakfast that stretches for hours.

Mushroom Traditions and Village Flavours

The plateau's oak and pine forests are prime mushroom territory, and Yeşilüzümlü has built a reputation around its fungi. Each spring the village hosts a mushroom festival, with guided foraging walks, cooking demonstrations and stalls selling dried porcini, chanterelles and the prized local morels.

Many village women grow oyster and shiitake mushrooms in shaded wooden huts, using techniques passed down and adapted over the years. Visitors can tour these small-scale operations, learn about the growing cycle, and buy fresh mushrooms to take back to their guesthouse kitchen.

Food is central to the Yeşilüzümlü experience. Village breakfasts feature homemade jams, cheeses, olives, warm bread and endless tea, while local restaurants serve hearty stews, stuffed vine leaves and grilled meats. The Friday market is the best place to stock up on picnic supplies before heading up to the plateau.

Hiking the Lycian Plateau

Yeşilüzümlü sits at the foot of the Lycian plateau, a high-altitude landscape of pine forests, rocky outcrops and ancient paths. Several marked trails start from the village, ranging from gentle walks through orchards to full-day hikes that climb to panoramic viewpoints over Fethiye Bay.

The most popular route follows an old shepherd's path up to the village of Kaya, passing stone houses and terraced fields. Along the way you'll spot Lycian rock tombs and perhaps meet a goatherd leading his flock. The climb is steady but manageable for anyone with a reasonable level of fitness.

For a more challenging adventure, continue beyond Kaya to the plateau itself, where the air is cooler and the views stretch all the way to the Mediterranean. Local guides can arrange transport and provide insights into the area's history and ecology.

Kaya Villages: Stone Houses and Ghost Stories

The abandoned village of Kaya, also known as Kayaköy, is a hauntingly beautiful reminder of the population exchange between Greece and Turkey in 1923. Its hundreds of stone houses, churches and chapels stand roofless and silent, gradually being reclaimed by fig trees and wildflowers. Walking among them is a moving experience, especially in the early morning or late afternoon light.

Nearby, other Kaya villages like Kinali and Karmylassos (now part of Kayaköy) offer a glimpse of traditional rural life. Some houses have been restored as guesthouses, and local families welcome visitors with tea and conversation.

Kaya is easily reached from Yeşilüzümlü by car or on foot, and makes a fascinating half-day excursion. Combine it with a visit to the Lycian rock tombs at nearby Tlos or the ruins of Cadianda for a full day of history and scenery.

Farmstays and Village Hospitality

One of the greatest joys of Yeşilüzümlü is its hospitality. Family-run farmstays and guesthouses offer simple, comfortable rooms, often in traditional stone houses with gardens full of fruit trees. Rates are remarkably good value compared to the coast, and include generous home-cooked breakfasts.

Many hosts are happy to show guests around their land, explain local farming methods, or invite them to help with seasonal tasks like harvesting olives or picking grapes. It's a genuine cultural exchange rather than a staged experience.

For those who prefer a bit more comfort, a handful of boutique hotels in the area blend rustic charm with modern amenities. But the essence of Yeşilüzümlü lies in its simplicity and warmth, so don't be surprised if you end up staying longer than planned.

Getting There and When to Go

Yeşilüzümlü is about a 40-minute drive from Ölüdeniz or Fethiye, following the signed road towards the plateau. Dolmuş services run from Fethiye's central bus station several times a day, but a car gives you the freedom to explore the surrounding villages and trails at your own pace.

The best time to visit is from April to June, when the plateau is green and wildflowers are in bloom, and again in September and October for the grape harvest and milder hiking weather. The Friday market operates year-round, but spring and autumn are ideal for combining market browsing with outdoor activities.

Pack layers, as evenings can be cool even in summer, and bring sturdy shoes for the trails. Whether you're a hiker, a food lover or simply seeking a break from the beach, Yeşilüzümlü and the Kaya Villages offer a rewarding taste of real Turkey.